Jean-Marc Mansvelt Refines Berluti's Focused Luxury Strategy

While the overall luxury market saw a 5 percent decline in group sales last year, Berluti kept its revenues stable, according to WWD .

SR
Sofia Rios

June 11, 2026 · 2 min read

Interior of a luxurious Berluti boutique with a customer admiring handcrafted leather shoes, symbolizing focused exclusivity.

While the overall luxury market saw a 5 percent decline in group sales last year, Berluti kept its revenues stable, according to WWD. Berluti is reducing its traditional market presence by opting out of seasonal collections and converting stores, yet it's simultaneously outperforming the market and aiming for elite luxury status. This counter-intuitive strategy of focused exclusivity and experiential retail appears to be a viable path for luxury brands to thrive amidst market volatility and elevate their brand perception, solidifying its 2026 outlook.

A New Blueprint for Experiential Retail

Berluti just unveiled its latest retail concept with a new boutique on Via Gesù in Milan, according to WWD. By year-end, nearly half of Berluti's 65 global stores will adopt this model. The Milan location now targets local clients, a stark contrast to its previous tourist-heavy focus. This isn't just a facelift; it's a strategic pivot towards exclusive, immersive experiences tailored for discerning locals, ditching the fleeting tourist dollar.

Redefining the Fashion Calendar

Forget seasonal collections. Berluti now stages a single annual presentation during Paris Fashion Week men's shows in June, according to WWD. This bold move sheds the pressure of constant newness, allowing the brand to champion timeless craftsmanship and solidify its elite luxury status.

Berluti's Heritage and High-End Ambitions

Berluti isn't just making shoes; they're mastering patina and design, according to theshoesnobblog. Their ambition? To reign as the king of high-end design, rivaling powerhouses like Hermes, Gucci, and Prada. This deep-rooted expertise and audacious goal are the bedrock of their strategic shifts.

The Future of Focused Luxury

Berluti's counter-cyclical strategy is a masterclass in focused luxury, according to WWD. By embracing scarcity, hyper-local retail, and a streamlined fashion calendar, Berluti proves that true luxury brands can thrive by contracting their market footprint, not expanding it. Stabilizing revenues during a 5% market decline, while pivoting to discerning local clientele, suggests traditional distribution models are now liabilities for brands aspiring to Hermes-level exclusivity. Berluti's bold moves could set a powerful precedent for others aiming to differentiate and thrive in a competitive, discerning market.